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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.